June 30 – July 15, 2018
After 7 months of independence from a car we wanted to see more of this beautiful country so what better way than a roadtrip through Northern Spain. We rented a mid-size, diesal Volvo that got amazing mileage. After looking at the weather forecast and seeing rain to the west, we decided to drive north-east from Madrid, headed towards the Pyrenees in France. Soon after leaving Madrid we were quickly in the countryside and it reminded me of California.
Huesca, Spain
June 30 – July 1
We looked at the map to see what was on the way to the Pyrenees and found an old town called Huesca. As we drove into town, there were no other cars and we found ourselves surrounded by beautiful historic buildings with only a few people around. Before dinner we walked to a nearby park so the baby could play and we could see a little bit of town. Slowly the area came to life and we went to dinner near our hotel in a small, busy plaza. We had an amazing mushroom truffle risotto and it was so inexpensive.
Pyrenees and Laruns, France
July 1 – July 5
The next day we headed north into France to stay in the Pyrenees. The drive through the mountains was twisty and so scenic. We passed colorful wildflowers, valleys, huge granite mountain peaks and turquoise lakes.
We rented an apartment in Laruns, a small town known for being part of a Tour de France stage that is near the Col d’Aubisque mountain peak. It is nestled in a valley with a small river running through it encompassed by mountain peaks. The apartment had a balcony and windows offering us gorgeous views without leaving and I loved just lounging in our apartment admiring them. We spent 4 days there walking around the small town, taking the baby across the street to the playground which had the most picturesque backdrop, eating and going out for a drive. Although we were in the middle of the mountains we were still able to enjoy delicious French cuisine. For lunch we would get confit duck from the butcher with fresh bread and chocolate raspberry custard tart from the bakery.
It was so much fun to experience life in the Pyrenees. We had 3 encounters of local farmers moving their herds through town. One night we heard loud bells and looked out to see a large heard of cows walking down the street. The next morning we went out to drive the road over the infamous Col d’Aubisique and although we could not make it all the way because they were paving the road in preparation of the Tour coming through, we met up with a farmer moving a herd of cattle on the road then a few minutes down the road there was a couple of kids (I think they were 10 and 12 years old!) with dogs moving a herd of sheep on the road. We were surrounded by the animals.
As beautiful as the town was with beautiful flowers, gorgeous mountain peaks, crisp fresh air, it was overrun with flies that drove us all crazy! It was time to move on and head back south towards Spain. We took our time on the drive to take in the beauty of the Pyrenees and stretch our legs in a beautiful valley.
Logrono, Spain
July 5 – 7
After scouring booking.com for accommodations we decided to go to Logrono, Spain, home to the Spanish wine country. As soon as we got into our hotel in the old town, I was smitten with the views of the red roofs, church steeples, and mesa in the distance. The location was perfect for eating because we were on a pedestrian only street surrounded by restaurants and next to Calle del Laurel which is lined with tapas bars that overflow with people into the narrow road every night. Every meal and snack we ate was divine. A few dishes that stood out was tender sliced octopus with olive oil and paprika and toast with foie gras and balsamic glaze that tasted so buttery. Around the corner we had a delicious dinner at Masqueria La Lonja and the waiters were so friendly. I loved their sliced octopus with vinegret, it was so tender and a little tangy. I hope I can go back someday, not only for the food but also for the happy, friendly vibe of this beautiful old city.
Leon
July 7 – 8
Our next stop was a quick drive to Leon. We stayed on the outskirts of the old town to save some money on a hotel. We arrived in the afternoon and walked into town. On our way we passed the old Roman wall then went into the main square to see Leon Cathedral which was built between 1201-1301. The baby played with his stroller while we took pictures. The exterior of the gothic church was pretty but upon going inside, I was blown away by the beautiful stained glass, not only for all of the colors and design but also the vast quantity that was all over the walls. We walked around more, admiring the ornate architecture then sitting down for at a seafood restaurant for another scrumptious dinner.
Picos de Europa
July 8 – 10
Spain has more to offer than just delicious food, it also has beautiful mountains. From Leon we went to the national park Picos de Europa. The drive was beautiful with large bushes covered with blooming yellow flowers, actually we saw these all over Spain. We stayed in a hotel in a small valley called Llanaves de la Reina that has a population of 20! Thankfully our hotel had a bar and restaurant because there was nothing else opened in the town. We walked around town along a small river, where locals had healthy gardens full of vegetables. Close by there was a long hike and at the start there was also a dirt road. We followed it, taking us further into the valley on a gently sloping hill, perfect for the baby. Wildflowers were everywhere with mountain peaks in the distance. The air was so fresh and it was so quiet. I felt so grateful and happy to be there with my son and husband.
One morning after breakfast we drove into the park, passing over more windy roads with beautiful wildflowers. As we got further into it, the magnificent limestone massifs that this park is known for came into sight and it took my breath away. They were tall unique rugged peaks with sharp edges that I have never seen before. We stopped at a small town to walk around then drove a little more. We stopped at a big pull off to let the baby play and take more pictures with the massifs in the background. We expected the baby to get out and run but he wanted to drive the car! On our way back to the hotel we stopped at the small town for lunch. My favorite part of our meal was the local blue cheese called Cabrales. It is a special variety made in this part of Spain and it tasted very smooth for a blue cheese.
Ribadeo
July 10 – 11
We wanted to at least see the Atlantic Ocean once so I looked for hotel bargains around the north west coast of Galicia and found something in Ribadeo. The hotel was nothing special but it worked for a night and the town was very friendly. We brought the baby to a playground in the center of town and quickly made friends who shared a common interest in Paw Patrol. The friendliness continued at dinner where the baby ran around with 2 little girls outside while we waited for our food. The next morning we drove to the coast to see As Catedrais, which is a group of large rocks and cliffs along the ocean. It was pretty and a nice little detour.
Santiago de Compostela
July 11 – 13
Throughout our trip we noticed signs for the Camino de Santiago (or the Way of St. James) and learned that it is a 500 mile Christian pilgrimage. The Way has dozens of routes with the common ending in Santiago de Compostela where the remains of St James are located. We sometimes saw groups of people walking along the road on a separate path and within towns like Leon we saw the traditional scallop symbols on sidewalks and in gift shops. Although we were not intentionally following it, we went to Santiago de Compostela and stayed right in the middle of the old town close to the church. It was a beautiful old town with narrow, windy cobblestone roads lined with tapas bars, bakeries, ice cream shops, and souvenirs. Throughout the day the sound of church bells rang alongside the sounds of pilgrims celebrating the end of their long journey, often late into the night. We wandered around admiring the architecture and devoured more delicious seafood and desserts.
Vigo
July 13 – 15
Sadly our trip was coming to an end. Our last stop was in Vigo for more delectable Galician food. We walked through town and came across a free concert where they were playing American rock and roll with Spanish words. Later we had dinner at a seafood restaurant where we sat outside with views of the bay. We splurged and shared a 2 person seafood platter that was so yummy.
We woke up early for our 5 1/2 hour trip back to Madrid. Thankfully the roads in Spain are fantastic, with little traffic and smooth pavement. Our roadtrip was so much fun and I was so happy we got to see northern Spain and the Pyrenees. After returning the car, we spent 3 more days in Madrid then flew back to New York.